Friday, March 19, 2010

Bay St. (Monday, 12/14/2009)

Shawn and I went. The size was there, and, for a more experienced
surfer, the waves. But it was hard for me to read. They were pretty
walled up and fast. Shawn got a few good rides.

Shawn:
It was c-c-c-cold. JJ and I were in the water about 15 minutes before the sun came up and offshores blew the whole time. We surfed for just over an hour I think and I began to shiver a little and decided I'd enough.

Much bigger than I thought it would be. I was hoping for more swell to overcome the high tide and then wished for less swell once we were out in it. I'd say consistent chest waves rolled thru with occasional head high (surfline had 3-4' with occ 5' for Venice). Peaky windswell with decent shape on some waves, as usual the bigger ones were mostly closed out. I had one great right all the way into shore, a couple fast drop and turns and thats about it. Paddle out was a chore, a good day to be selective. Too bad tide's not cooperating with Sunset.

Shawn

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